Q&A: If a dryer pull(amps) is greater than the fuse …?

Question by ddl: If a dryer pull(amps) is greater than the fuse ...?
If a dryer pull(amps) is greater than the fuse and you
can't switch up the fuses say split them -10,20,15 etc
to balance the difference or afford to get a higher fuse due
to overkill - what could you do that is reliably safe and
cost effective?

The house was already rewired and it still cant pull weight.
The former owners made it beautiful with their renovations
and it did pass inspection - however they were not skilled
in plumbing, electrical or phone repairs and or maintence and we have paid for all the above to be repaired in 2yrs.
time and still cant run the dryer effectively or have a bathroom light on and run the microwave in the kitchen
at the same time. Our plumbing constantly backs up especially when it seems to rain.

Yes, we have homeowners insurance and some problems were
repaired by them.
Our time for recourse with the inspector was
out by the time we realized just how awful this utility mess would roll into one giant avalanche.
Ideas for dryer?
To: All

Could it be that when the former owners
remodled and added a bedroom and a bathroom to the existing house, they
didn't add any more to the fuse box?

DeaconBlues

Yes, you are right about the amps - 200
oh, and no the fuse box doesn't trip.
except for with one thing and thats
when the dishwasher, microwave and
stove are on at the same time(I kill it
everytime - my fault that one. lol)
It works but drags and takes 3 to 4 cycles to dry a small load of equal
density clothing.
Thank you Ler!

I'd forgotten about that!

I always forget the basics!
Eveyone helped and I thank you for your time.

Best answer:

Answer by Bill
Talk to an electrician to make sure that breaker panel is laid out correctly. It may cost you some money but it will be done right.

Know better? Leave your own answer in the comments!

4 thoughts on “Q&A: If a dryer pull(amps) is greater than the fuse …?”

  1. houses are wired in series paralell so you may be experiencing a voltage drop on one of the circiuts. Does the dryer blow the fuse or trip the breaker? If so, you may have too many lights/devices on one circiut.

  2. I think the safest, most cost effective solution to your problem is replacement of the electrical service.

    In other words, replace the fuse-based service with a breaker-based service.

    Without knowing anything about the residence, most fused services are 60, 75, or 100 Amps.

    The standard for breaker services is usually 200 Amps.

    Electricians do this everyday, and unless you have a train wreck going to your main electrical service, the electrician can have it changed out in an hour and a half to two hours.

  3. Great detail there, but even with that I still don’t know what the dryer is really doing, except that it won’t work I guess.

    So, the dryer shuts off and can’t be re-started and the breaker/fuse isn’t tripped?

    Are you certain the dryer itself is functioning properly? Has it been checked?

    Can you plug in anything else into the outlet the dryer is on and use it without problems? I’m talking about something that draws a lot of current….like the washing machine maybe. And I’m aware that some dryers use different plugs and some use 240V as opposed to 120V.

    Is it possible the wiring in the dryer’s circuit are large enough diameter (guage)?

    Are you sure the fuse/breaker is working correctly. I gather that it’s old enough that it is not a Ground Fault Protection, or Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor at the plug…..yes?

    I’m not much help, but I thought I’d at least pass these thoughts along to you.

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